We decided to stay for an extra couple of days in Montevideo as we really enjoyed that city. The couple we were staying with, Fernando and Claudette, were lovely hosts and their house was lovely. Claudette did all the interior design herself so the place was lush.
Our breakfast was the most delicious of the trip so far and the weather was amazing so we could eat outside with a view of the sea.
We spent some more time relaxing at the beach and exploring the Carrasco district and found a fabulous restaurant for lunch where we tried “the best steak in Uruguay”, and it was delicious!
I decided to try a Submarine (hot chocolate with real chocolate bars) at Cafe Camelia and it did not disappoint!
Our hosts helped us plan our next quick stop in Colonia before we got the ferry back to Argentina so we headed off fairly early the next morning to the bus station. Colonia didn’t disappoint, even if we had to do the whole tour in 20 minutes with our backpacks on!!
As we were disembarking from the ferry some of the lads that had been in our seating area got out instruments and gave a great performance in the main foyer!
For the last few days of Steven’s trip, we stayed in Recoleta and explored the Northern parts of Buenos Aires. For our first evening back in Buenos Aires we watched some guys breakdancing in Recoleta before getting a bus to Palermo, another fancy area with bars and restaurants to go for some food and drinks. We had dinner at a great BBQ place (who accepted dollars and gave us change for a great exchange rate) The next morning, 8th January, was my last full day in Buenos Aires! We did a FreeWalks walking tour of Recoleta and our guide, Mariano, was excellent! Super funny and really informative. We learned that Buenos Aires has one of the largest Jewish communities in the world, with over 300,000 Jews and we saw a big synagogue across from a lovely park in the area.
Mariano also told us about San Martin and why he is a hero of South America for taking on the Spanish against all odds with an army of only 10,000 leading to the independence of Argentina from Spain.
We also saw some great evidence of the fury of a woman scorned – a potential mother-in-law (awarded a high honour from the Pope) refused to let her son marry an immigrant. In response, the immigrant bought up the land between the mother’s church and a beautiful park and built a fairly monstrous concrete skyscraper and had it named Kavanagh Tower after herself. The building was the tallest building in South America for a while. That’s one way to get revenge…
We spent our last evening together at La Catedral tango club! It’s a cool place, and there was a tango lesson on as we arrived so we joined straight in! The club costs $80 pesos entry without the lesson and $100 pesos with – great value as we were there from 10pm until around 2:30am.
I had such a fantastic time. I joined the advanced group (ridiculous as I had only had one lesson before!!!) but I got on well and I learned the Paso Doble! We stayed after the lesson to watch some locals dancing and to have dinner. I ordered some craft beers (which I found way too hoppy to enjoy) and a bottle of Callia 2017 Malbec to go with our vegetarian meals. Steven had spaghetti with vegetables and I ordered tepanyaki vegetables (wok fried vegetables with soy sauce), both were alright but mine took about an hour to arrive as the waitress totally forgot to put our whole order through. Still a great night and highly recommended, but maybe eat before you arrive….
On my last morning in Buenos Aires I didn’t really do much; I had been struggling with a cold for a few days so I needed to chill out a little before I caught my flight to the south. We moved our bags to the fancy hotel Steven was checking in to for his last two nights (which even had a private balcony!) and then walked into Recoleta to get some lunch. Steaks, of course!
After lunch I grabbed my bags, said farewell to Steven and took an Uber to the airport for my afternoon flight to Ushuaia!